Enjoy this very thoughtful Maui Journal written by one of our guests; June

My husband Steve and I had a good reason to go to Maui— not that there’s ever a bad one! It was our 25th wedding anniversary. We’d heard so many good things about the Valley Isle and neither of us had ever been there. I’d begun research earlier in the year and discovered Susan and Mark’s condo listed on VRBO (Vacation Rentals By Owners) on the Internet. I looked at many of the condo listings but kept coming back to their condo…and are we both glad I did! After our initial contact and booking, Susan sent us a wealth of helpful information, and she and Mark were just great hosts who made us feel most welcome. Then came departure day!

Thursday, 9/20/07:

We flew out of San Diego at 8:30 a.m. and arrived at 11:00 a.m. Maui time. The sky was clear and the tradewinds had begun to pick up. It was lush and beautiful with swaying palms and hibiscus and bougainvillea blossoms bobbing in the breeze, and the humidity was very comfortable with the tradewinds blowing. We got our Thrifty rental car with no snags and headed toward Kihei. We stopped at the Safeway on Pi’ilani Highway and got groceries for breakfast, which was a minor strategic error. When we got to the Maui Kamaole, we were told we had to wait until 3:00 to check in (and had I read the confirmation, I would have known that of course). They let us put our refrigerated items in their employee refrigerator, thank goodness, and then we took off to explore the area.

We drove south from Kihei toward Wailea and back. We picked up a sandwich and drinks at Zack’s Deli and then ate lunch on a picnic bench at the beach at Kamaole III. We waded in the ocean and walked along the beach for a bit and then headed for the car. We stopped at the ABC store where I found three great cover-ups for a reasonable price and Steve got a cap and a wine-dyed t-shirt. When we got into Susan and Mark’s condo, we were delighted. It was just lovely, beautifully furnished, and much more spacious than we’d expected. Everything we’d need for our stay was there, right down to the Kleenex and CD’s of Hawaiian music! The lanai was bordered in ginger plants in bloom and the grounds were full of all kinds of flowering tropical plants. Best of all, it was just a short walk to the upper pool and hot tub, and there was a wonderful waterfall at poolside.

We got unpacked and settled in and then went to an early dinner at Gian Don’s on Kihei Road. Steve had Chicken Marsala with Pinot Grigio and I had Veal Picatta with Pinot Noir and everything was excellent. We probably could have split a plate as we had lots left over. We had no room for dessert but vowed to come back for their Tiramisu. Our table was out on the patio and the tradewinds were cooling. Makai! We hit the sack early after watching a little of Channel 7, the Visitors’ Channel, and listening to the Hula Honeys’ CD. Fun!

Friday, 9/21/07:

Breakfast for us consisted of fresh pineapple, fried eggs, potatoes O’Brien, bacon, croissants and Kona coffee. We got into our bathing suits and headed for the pool about 9:00 with the idea of sneaking up on a tan. Spent about an hour there basking in the sun, reading and enjoying the cool water and the lovely waterfall. The pool area was beautiful and quiet and we had it to ourselves on this morning. We went back in and showered and dressed 10:00-ish and went to Hilo Hattie’s to get some things for Aloha Friday. Seems there’s a tradition that Hawaiian prints are worn on Fridays, so we naturally had to get with the program!

From there we headed to Lahaina and had lunch at the historic Pioneer Inn. It was neat to think that Mark Twain had stayed there. (It’s now on my to-do list to read what he wrote about his visit to Hawaii.) We just strolled around briefly as we were going to be coming back to Lahaina, and we took off in our PT Cruiser to reconnoiter Ka’anapali, Napili and Kapalua to get a sense to the time it takes to get around and to look at the scenery along the northwest coast. On our return, we made it back to Kihei in time to photograph the sunset on the beach. As Steve was setting up the shot, a honeymoon couple asked him to take a photo of them, which he did. They were SO young and healthy and attractive. We told them it was our 25th anniversary and they smiled and nodded politely and looked at us like we were covered with moss! Ah, youth. We were still full from lunch when we got back to the condo so we just had pineapple for dinner!

Saturday, 9/22/07:

We had breakfast at the condo again, went to the pool for an hour, and then showered and dressed and headed for Ma’alaea. We went to Buzz’s Wharf, a restaurant that overlooks the harbor, for a light lunch. The restaurant is family-owned and they run a shrimp farm in New Caledonia, so their shrimp is fresh and huge and delicious. I just had the shrimp cocktail (yum!) and Steve had Ono or one of the local fish (I get the names mixed up). Everything was delicious, the server was friendly and the view was just fine.

After lunch we went to the Maui Ocean Center just up the hill, which was well worth the price of admission and was very interesting. We got to see the kinds of fish that we’d be seeing when we snorkel Sunday, so it was like a sneak preview. Around 4:00 we moseyed on over to the dock for the sunset dinner cruise on the Pride of Maui, a power catamaran. I’d worn a dress, which was a mistake because (a) the wind was blowing at least 30 mph and (b) the cruise was not at all that formal. For future reference, it’s better to wear casual slacks and maybe a light jacket or windbreaker that you don’t mind getting wet, especially if you like to hang about on the forward deck as we do. We met a lot of different people as we milled about and we enjoyed chatting with our fellow passengers. At one point I introduced a honeymoon couple I’d been chatting with to another couple that was celebrating their 65th anniversary—great fun, and the four of them stuck together for the rest of the trip! There was an open bar and the food was catered and very good—barbecued ribs and chicken, all sorts of salads (the most outstanding of which was an artichoke and spinach salad), a delicious fresh fruit platter, assorted breads, and three different desserts. We had fun getting splashed, and it was windy and wet and like a picnic on the water. I’d envisioned a more formal experience for some reason, but it was certainly fine and fun as it was. We got back into the harbor by 7:30 or so and everybody left the boat with huge grins and great memories.

Sunday, 9/23/07:

We were up early, got into our bathing suits and cover-ups, slathered down with 45+ sunscreen, and took off for Makena Landing where there are several beautiful little beaches. There were three other couples plus two youngsters going out with us. South Pacific Kayak’s guide was named Steve (hereinafter referred to as GS for Guide Steve) and he’d been doing these tours for around 15 years or so. GS was ex-navy, an experienced Scuba diver, had been trained as a naturalist, and was in great shape since he did this nearly every day! He was very informative and we learned a lot of interesting things about kayaking and snorkeling as well as the sea life in the area. Most importantly, he told us to never touch the sea turtles as there was a $5000 fine for doing so!

Once everyone had assembled on the beach, we paddled out to the reef and practiced our teamwork. GS said that they often referred to the kayaks as “divorce barges” and admonished us all to “play nice together.” It was fun working the paddles and I loved the kayaking part as I used to do a lot of canoeing years ago; however, I couldn’t get the hang of breathing through the snorkel. Steve had snorkeled before so he was good to go and had a great time. GS pointed out sea turtles to us and an even brought up an octopus for us to see (yes, I did pet it!). For those who were comfortable snorkeling, he took the group to various spots on the reef. The whole area just teemed with multi-colored fish as well as turtles. I just stayed close to the kayaks and held my breath and viewed the fishies through my mask, and it was fine as there was plenty to see.

GS assembled us and we paddled to a second snorkel location. This time I stayed on the kayak while others went below but, alas, I didn’t realize that all my sunscreen had washed off. Of course I didn’t put on my t-shirt either. Chatted with another of the women who hadn’t gotten the snorkeling thing down either, and we had a good time watching the fish swim below us and the turtles pop their heads above water as well as enjoying the sun and bobbing on the surface. As we were chatting with GS, I noticed that a sea turtle had gotten tangled in the anchor line, so he had to put on his Scuba gear and go down and free it without touching it. My husband Steve had come back to the kayak about the time we discovered the turtle’s dilemma, so he was able to help GS spot where the line was wrapped around the turtle. After about ten minutes, the turtle was free and swam off.

We hauled out of the water and headed for the beachside park up the way where there were showers. Then it was lunch on the beach and GS distributed sandwiches and chips and drinks. Then he told us about various indigenous shells and their inhabitants and other ocean lore. We were the first to leave the beach and, after we got back to the condo and showered, we discovered why we should have listened to people’s advice and kept our t-shirts on throughout the excursion and/or reapplied sunscreen more frequently. Cooked lobsters were no more colorful than we!

We decided to have an early dinner at the Five Palms restaurant in Kihei so that we could (a) see the sunset and (b) sit in the shade. The resort was right on the beach and we had a nearly unobstructed view of the sunset. I had their rack of lamb with a Rosemary/Mint sauce and Steve had their fish trio, which were samplings of three of their most popular fish entrées. Then we had a dessert trio–you guessed it—consisting of samplings of three of their most popular desserts. There was pineapple cheesecake, Macadamia nut crème brulèe, and a caramelized banana. Yum! We decided that this was our official anniversary dinner. It was just lovely and we definitely recommend it for that special evening.

Monday, 9/24/07:

The Valley Isle Excursions driver picked us up at 7:00 at the condo reception area and we were off to the Road to Hana. The driver’s name was Patti and she was taking us to the breakfast stop where we’d change vans and ride with Wil Kanakoa, our driver and guide who had been born and raised in Hana. He was a great! He kept up a running narration as we left Kahului and headed for Pa’ia and points east and south. When we stopped at different viewing points, he’d tell us how much time we’d have and then, when we all were back on board, he’d say, “Okay, family, we GO!” He’d point out bananas or papayas or avocados growing wild or a rooster in the road and he’d say, “Yum-EE…and best part is, it’s F-R-E-E!” The vegetation was astounding and the one-lane bridges were sufficiently scary that I wouldn’t have wanted to drive it. The locals drive much faster than the tourists and so tourists are urged to pull over and let them pass. Every place we stopped was absolutely gorgeous…so many waterfalls and pools and all sorts of beautiful flowers. We had an al fresco lunch of barbecued chicken, macaroni salad, tossed salad and rolls at a tropical flower shop in Hana where Steve bought me a necklace of multi-colored abalone as a souvenir. Wil told us that across the street was property owned by Neutrogena where they grow their botanicals. He also pointed out a 700- or 800-acre area along the way that is owned by Oprah. Apparently Maui’s east coast is home to a number of celebrities.

Wil was always waving at someone either driving another tour bus or operating the stalls on the side of the road. He was a wealth of information and delightful to listen to. When we stopped where there were restrooms, he’d point out where they were and shout, “Go Hawaiian!” He played Hawaiian music on the way back and the whole trip was just great fun. We stopped for macadamia nut ice cream about 3:00. As Wil would say, “Yum-EE!”

We got back to the condo about 6:00 and went to a Mexican restaurant called Fred’s in Kihei for dinner. It probably is a better spot for the younger crowd and every time we had passed it, it was always full of people. However, for us it was too crowded and too loud and we wouldn’t recommend it for anything other than to have a drink and to say you’d been there. We got back to the condo around 8:00 and both of us fell asleep watching a Tom Cruise movie appropriately entitled, “Mission Impossible.” Turned out that what was impossible was to keep our eyes open!

Tuesday, 9/25/07:

We had a late breakfast at the condo of cinnamon rolls, scrambled eggs, bacon, pineapple, and Kona coffee. We had to run errands in a.m., among which were to transfer the photos Steve has been taking of San Juan Capistrano, Catalina, and Maui so that he could make room for more. We also bought an empty box from the FedEx store to ship things home in as a result of our enriching the island’s economy! We didn’t have lunch, as we knew we were going to the Maui Prince Luau in the evening. We lazed around the condo still nursing sunburns, I got caught up on my notes of the trip, and we learned more about things to do on Maui from Channel 7. I’d left Wednesday and most of Thursday free of plans so that we could see what we wanted to do and/or what we wanted to see more of. We decided on the Lavender Farm and the Tedeschi Winery for Wednesday and then going up early to see more of Lahaina on Thursday. There just isn’t enough time to do everything we want to do!

We drove down to the Maui Prince around 4:00 to stroll the grounds and had a drink by the pool. There was a wedding party gathering there and it was fun to see the little kids in their finery really yearning to get in the pool instead! Check-in for the luau was around 4:30 and they gave us “loaner” leis and took our photo (naturally for purchase later) and then presented us with shell leis which we got to keep, and gave us an Aloha greeting. I’d reserved Premium Seating for only a little more and it was well worth it as we got to sit in the front row of tables. Tables of 10 were set up and we were flanked by two darling newlywed couples, all four of whom were fun to chat with. Once everyone was seated, Steve wandered off to fetch Mai Tai’s as the announcer invited anyone who wanted to learn how to hula to come up on stage…so I went. There were maybe two dozen of us who were eager and willing to make fools of ourselves! When Steve got back to the table, he couldn’t believe I’d gone up there. It was lots of fun and I now know what a hukilau is. (I’ll tell you for five bucks!) Because I was messing about on stage, I missed them pulling the pig out of the imu, but it did taste fine when it was served! The Mai Tai’s were okay and not too strong and the food was plentiful and wonderful...lots of salads and fresh fruit, purple sweet potatoes, of course the mandatory poi, and five different desserts. There was a full moon which we could see rising above the stage as the group put on a very entertaining show of Polynesian dancing. It culminated with a man performing a spectacular solo fire dance, and I figure he absolutely must have spray his costume down with fire-retardant! Steve bought me a lovely shell necklace from the stands as we left…and of course we bought the photo! We were out of there by 8:00-ish and then we headed for Gian Don’s afterwards to split an excellent Tiramisu and sip some cognac on the patio and look at the moon. Great evening.

Wednesday, 9/26/07:

We had the last of the eggs and bacon and got ready for our drive upcountry. As soon as we got out of the valley on Highway 37, it was cooler and the clouds were hanging low over Haleakala. We stopped at Rice Park near Kula to ask a tour guide who had also stopped there with her brood for directions to the Lavender Farm. Steve asked how long it would take to get there and she looked at him in mock disgust and said, “Who cares? You on Maui time now, man. Just go!” It didn’t take us long to find it and we strolled around the lush grounds with a cool breeze blowing up the slopes of the mountain and pushing the clouds away. We had lavender tea on the verandah outside the gift shop and chatted with a couple that was there from Ireland. It was so intensely green at that altitude that I asked them if it reminded them of home, which they agreed that it did. We wandered more and Steve took more photos for another half hour or so. Then we headed to Kula for lunch at the Le Provence, a small restaurant with patio dining and a great view that is owned by a Frenchman. He makes all of his own breads and our sandwiches were delicious. If we had been going to stay longer, I would have stocked up on croissants and baguettes for our breakfasts!

From there we headed for the Tedeschi Winery in Ulupalakua along a winding two-lane road that gave us wonderful views of the valley. Extremely healthy cattle grazed on the hillsides as we drove along. The grounds of the winery were beautiful. The building where the wine-tastings and gift shop were located had been built for King Kamehameha as a guesthouse. We chose a red wine from the winery to take back to the condo where we enjoyed it with barbecued steaks, baked potato and a tossed salad for dinner. Nice day quietly spent.

Thursday, 9/27/07:

We woke up to the first overcast morning on the island. We had the last of the pineapple and cinnamon rolls and headed to the FedEx store to send back our acquired clothing and souvenirs, and that set us back $80…yikes! We also enriched Hilo Hattie’s yet again purchasing light waterproof jackets for our sail later in the afternoon. Maui Divers works with Hilo Hattie’s and I fell for their pearl oyster pitch. Actually, it turned out well as I now have a beautiful ring with not one but two pearls (Steve picked out the other one) as an anniversary present and a very nice souvenir of our 25th anniversary trip.

We headed on to Lahaina about 11:00 and found (hot tip!) an all-day parking lot at the corner of Dickenson and Waine’e Streets. If you get your parking ticket validated, it’s only $3 for the whole day. We first explored the Courthouse and then the Baldwin House. Both places have very interesting artifacts and historical information, especially if you’ve read Michener’s Hawaii and/or other books about the history of the islands. We scoped out the slip in the harbor where our sail would leave from, and then we headed for the Cool Cat Café for lunch. It’s in the Wharf Cinema Center on the second floor opposite the Banyan Tree. The server was cheerful, they make excellent burgers and the onion rings were wonderful. There were two cruise ships docked outside the reef so the streets were swarming with people. We enjoyed a little people watching while finishing our beers and then wandered around through shops looking for lanyards for our sunglasses in case the sail got rough. We were very proud of ourselves for showing self-restraint and just buying our lanyards!

We were scheduled at 2:00 p.m. to sail on America II, the America’s Cup contender skippered by Jimmy Conner at Fremantle, Australia, in 1987. There were twelve passengers, all of whom had some degree of sailing experience, the skipper and the crew (as in, the other guy) did all the sailing and were informative and entertaining. We motored out and then back in for about half an hour each way, so the actual sailing part was only about an hour. We got heeled over quite a bit and of course got wet. We were glad we had the jackets, as it was overcast and cool. (Of course we bought the photo that they’d taken before we sailed!)

We went back to the condo where we showered and got dressed for our last dinner on Maui. We had time to drive down to the parking area by the beach and watch the sunset one last time and Steve took some great photos. Then we headed to Café O Lei and didn’t have to wait very long to be seated. We shared a delicious lettuce wrap appetizer and our entrées were wonderful—another winner of a restaurant we plan to return to when we go back to Maui.

When we got back to the condo, I did laundry and preliminary packing, all the while wishing we could stay longer. We listened to the Slack Key Guitar CD’s we’d bought and sort of moped around since we knew our time was short in this beautiful place.

Friday, 9/28/07:

We had some the last of our Kona coffee, washed dishes, did the last load of towels, finished our packing and got everything ready to check out. We had breakfast outdoors at Spices restaurant on Kihei Road on our way to the airport. I realized that I hadn’t had anything with coconut in it yet so I ordered the pancakes with blueberries and coconut syrup. I was surprised at how good the syrup was. Yum!

We got to the airport by 10:00-ish, turned in the car and (unhappily) sat down in the airport to wait for our departure at 12:30. I actually wept as we left. It was an incredibly wonderful trip, a great anniversary celebration, and as is obvious, we both fell in love with Maui. We WILL return. Aloha…for now.

Mahalo for your thoughtfulness June - Susan & Mark